Chain Link Fencing Basics - Part 3: Fittings

Chain Link Fittings

 

Tension Wire

 

Tension wire is often used in place of bottom rail. Depending on the total linear footage of the fence, using tension wire can be a less expensive alternative than rails

Tension wire is also sometimes used in place of top rail in security applications because it makes the fence more difficult to climb. When using tension wire in place of top rail, a brace and truss setup is typically installed to keep the terminal posts from pulling over.

Smooth tension wire / utility wire has a wide number of uses, including residential fencing. It is typically available in 9, 11, 12, and 12.5 gauges. The most common use is in place of bottom rail on chain link fences.

Marcelled tension wire, which is usually 7 gauge, is used in commercial and industrial fencing applications. Due to the heavy gauge, Marcelled tension wire has crimps, or kinks, in it to facilitate stretching; without the crimps, stretching the 7 gauge wire over the length of the fence would be very difficult.

Line Fittings

Loop Caps

Loop caps fit on your line posts and secure the top rail of the fence. They are designed so that the top rail passes through them in a continuous line. Loop caps have 2 important dimensions, the post cap dimension (i.e. 2” for a 2” Post), and the top rail loop dimension (i.e. 1 3/8” for a 1 3/8” top rail)

Barb Arms 

Barb arms, like loop caps fit over the top of your line posts and have a hole in them to allow the top rail to pass through. Barb arms are available in 2 types, 3-wire and 6-wire. 3-Wire arms have 3 “Z” cuts or notches in them to hold 3 strands of barbwire. 6-wire arms have a V shape with 3 “Z” cuts on each side.

Line Rail Clamps 

Line Rail Clamps are used to secure mid-brace rails and bottom rails to your line posts. They are sold in 2 pieces, and are assembled around the post and attached using a carriage bolt & nut.

Terminal Fittings

Tension Bands

Tension bands are used in combination with tension bars to secure the stretched chain link fabric to a terminal post. The bands are placed around the terminal post, and hold the tension bar in place with a carriage bolt. There are two types of tension bands, flat and beveled. Flat bands are lighter, have flat edges, and are typically used for residential fencing applications. Beveled bands, on the other hand, are typically heavier with a thicker zinc coating, have a beveled edge, and are used in commercial projects.

Tension Bars

Tension bars are flat steel extrusions, usually 5/8” or ¾” thick, which are used to hold the stretched wire fabric in place at the terminal post. The tension bar is held in place by tension bands spaced every 12” apart on the terminal post.

Brace Bands

Brace bands are used to connect other fittings like rail ends, tension wire, and barbwire to your terminal posts. Like tension bands, brace bands come in flat and beveled varieties.

Rail Ends

Rail ends secure top, mid, and bottom rails to your terminal posts. They are held on to the terminal post with a brace band and 1 ¼” x 5/16” carriage bolt. Rail ends are typically available in aluminum (residential grade) and pressed steel (commercial grade). Commercial grade rail ends are often combo rail ends, which have a hole in them to insert a bent truss rod in a brace and truss setup.

Post Caps

Post caps fit over the top of your chain link posts to keep water and insects out. They fit over the outside of your post, so a 2" cap will fit on the outside of a 2" (1 7/8" O.D.) post.  In most situations, you will only use post caps on your terminal posts because loop caps will be used on your line posts to hold your top rail.   Post caps are generally available in aluminum and pressed steel, in 2 different styles, acorn and dome.

Chain Link Fencing Basics - Part 2: Framework

Framework is the tubular steel pipe that makes up the posts and rails of a chain link fence; it is available in a wide array of diameters and wall thicknesses.

When talking about the diameter of a fence post, there are a few important things to know.  First , similar to dimensional wood products, steel posts and fittings are usually labeled in nominal sizes; so, for example, a fence post listed as 2” is actually 1 7/8” O.D., and a fitting listed as 2" is meant to fit a 1 7/8" O.D. pipe.  Second, fence pipe is measured in outside diameter (O.D.); so, if you see that a post is 1 7/8”, it means that the diameter of the outer wall of the post is 1 7/8”, unless stated otherwise.

The strength of a tubular steel fence post is primarily a function of its wall thickness. There are a wide number of residential, commercial, and industrial grade pipe choices available. Different manufacturers have different brand designations for their pipe. For example, Allied Tube & Conduit designates its fence pipe as follows:

SS15 – Residential, Light Commercial – Wall Thickness on a 1 7/8” Pipe = .072”
SS20 – Commercial – Wall Thickness on a 1 7/8” Pipe = .090”
SS40 – Commercial/Industrial – Wall Thickness on a 1 7/8” Pipe = .120”

Also common in industrial fence applications is Schedule 40, also known as Standard Weight, pipe, which is a national standard size and has a wall thickness of .145”

Chain Link Posts

The size of the fence post that you use will be determined by a number of factors, including: the height of the fence, the gauge of the fabric, and the primary use of the fence. For example, a 4’ or 5’ residential fence with 11 gauge wire can usually be installed with 1 5/8” diameter line posts and 2” terminals. On the other hand, an 8’ commercial grade fence with 9 gauge wire will require line posts that are at least 2 ½” in diameter and terminal posts that are at least 3”. A general rule of thumb is that your terminal posts should be at least 1 size larger than your line posts.

Another factor to consider in choosing your posts is whether you will be using some type of privacy screening on the fence, either now or in the future. Privacy screening, slats, and fence weave products all add surface area to the fence, thereby increasing the wind load on the fence. You will typically have to increase your post sizes when using such products. So, on the 8’ commercial fence in the example above, you may need to switch to 3” line posts and 4” terminal posts. Depending on the estimated wind load on your fence, you may also have to adjust your posts wall thickness, spacing, and footer size/depth. A thorough discussion of wind load is beyond the scope of this introductory article. For more comprehensive information, view the Chain Link Fence Manufacturer’s Institute’s Wind Load Guide.

Chain Link Rails

Almost all permanent chain link fences have a top rail to support the weight of the chain link fabric and keep it from sagging over time. The fabric is tied to the rail using wire ties, which keeps the fence tight and prevents the fabric from being pushed down for easy ingress onto the property – either by an animal or trespasser.

Top rails are typically sold in 21’ sections (though they may be cut shorter for transportation purposes), and are either swedged* end or are sold with sleeves that can be used to splice the rails into one continuous rail. The top rail attaches to the terminal (end or corner) posts via rail ends, and runs through loop caps on the line posts.

*A swedged rail is tapered at one end so that it fits into the unswedged end of another rail, enabling you to create one long continuous rail.

A bottom rail serves the same purpose as the top rail – preventing the fabric from being pushed inward, thereby allowing easy access. Unlike top rail, however, bottom rail does not run in a continuous line; it must be cut down to fit between each section of fence. It attaches to the terminal post with an end cap, and line posts with line rail clamps. Many homeowners / fence installers choose to forgo the bottom rail in favor of bottom tension wire, which serves the same purpose, but is a less expensive alternative.

Often, chain link fences taller than 6’ also have a mid-brace rail, at least on each section between a terminal post and line post. The mid-brace rail provides support for the terminal post against the tension of the stretched wire fabric. In other words, it helps to keep the terminal post from being pulled over due to the high tension needed to keep the stretched fabric taut.

The typical diameters for top rail are 1 3/8” O.D. for residential installations and 1 5/8” O.D. for commercial installations, and most fittings are available for both sizes.

Chain Link Fencing Basics - Part 1: Wire Fabric

Fabric is what puts the “chain link” in chain link fence; it is created by a machine that weaves together 2 strands of metal wire into a mesh. A typical chain link mesh will have a diamond size (measured on the diagonals) of 2” or 2 ¼”, although smaller diamond sizes of 1 ¾” and 1 ¼” are also common. In fact, most chain link pool fences are constructed of 1 ¼” mesh to meet ICC pool codes because the smaller diamond size makes the fence more difficult to climb (Note: regulations do vary by municipality, so check with your local building department before buying your materials).

If you want to see how chain link is created, from the strand to the roll, check out this video on YouTube

The diameter of the wire strand is what determines the gauge of the chain link. It is a little counter-intuitive, but the higher the gauge, the thinner the wire; so, for example, 9 gauge galvanized chain link fabric is made from wire strand that is .148” in diameter, while 12 gauge galvanized chain link fabric is made from wire strand that is only .106” in diameter.

Most galvanized residential chain link fences use wire fabric that is 11 or 11 1/2 gauge, whereas most commercial fences use 9 gauge wire fabric. 6 gauge fabric can also be used, however it is very heavy and hard to stretch, so it is usually reserved for only heavy industrial and high security applications. On the flip side, 12 gauge and 12 ½ gauge wires are very thin, and are typically used for temporary fencing applications.

Here Kitty Kitty. A Recent Study Suggests Cats Kill Up to 18 Billion Small Creatures Per Year! Can Putting Up A Fence Keep Them In (Or Out Of) Your Yard?

A recent study from the Smithsonian Conservation Biology Institute suggests that cats kill up to 3.7 billion birds and 15 billion small mammals per year.  For some people, that may come as welcome news, as their thinking is that the cats are killing common pests like mice and rats.  Not true.  According to Pete Marra, an animal ecologist and a member of the team that conducted the study, the majority of the mammals that are killed are native woodland creatures like voles and chipmunks.  And while pet cats do play a role, feral cats bear most of the responsibility.

Often cat owners will let their cats come and go from the house as they please, knowing that the cat will return.  Aside from the danger of getting hurt by larger animals or other feral cats, letting your cat roam can increase the likelihood that they are off hunting.  If the last thing that you want to see is Snowball returning home with a dead bluejay or chipmunk, then you need some way to contain it to your yard and keep other animals out.  But is there any kind of fence can keep a cat in?  Can't they just climb, dig, or jump whatever obstacle you put in their way?  After all, cats have a strong natural instinct to hunt, and will go to just about any lengths to fulfill that desire.

The truth is, after much debate and discussion, the general consensus in our office is that no fence can 100% keep a cat in and that best way to ensure that your cat doesn't leave the yard is to keep them in the house.  But, we'll stay on the case and keep researching until we find the best method.  In the meantime, we would love to hear what our readers think.  If any of you have successfully contained your cat in your yard, leave us a comment to let us know how you did it.

Free Shipping on Hundreds of Fence and Railing Supplies

As part of a new pilot program, when you see the logo above on an item in our store, that item qualifies for free standard shipping on any order over $250.

Almost all of the new tools, paints, and solar lighting supplies in the store qualify.  As do most of our ornamental gate hinges and latches.  And the really big news is that Westbury Railing qualifies for free shipping, in some cases with the order of just one section. 

Fence Tools Now Available

Whether you're a weekend warrior or a professional contractor, installing a fence requires the right tools for the job.  That's why over the past few weeks we've been adding a large variety of professional quality fencing tools; everything from fencer's pliers to string.  Take a look at just a small sample of the items below.  When you click on the link, it will take you directly to the section of the site where the tools are. 

Measuring Tools - Tapes, Rollers, Levels, & More.

Cutting Tools - Hacksaws, Bolt Cutters

Stretching Tools - Wire Grips, Come-A-Longs, Ratchets

Digging Tools - Post Hole Diggers, Augur Bits

Specialty Fence Tools - Hog Ring Pliers, Gate Clip Bending Tools, Barricade Tape

Paints & Coatings - Cold Galvanizing Spray, Touch Up Paints

Tension Wire & Barbed Wire Now Available

We forgot to mention yesterday that our new chain link wire category also includes galvanized barb wire, razor wire, tension wire, and utility wire.  We also sell all of those items in vinyl coated varieties, which will be coming soon to the store.  All of the above types of wire are eligible for the same quantity discounts as our chain link fabric.

Galvanized & Vinyl Coated Chain Link Wire Now Available

Great news for our professional and DIY customers.  In addition to our large selection of chain link fittings, slats, and accessories, we now offer galvanized chain link fabric from 11-1/2 to 6 ga. and vinyl coated chain link fabric in 9 ga. extruded and 8 ga. fused & bonded.

All of our galvanized wire is galvanized before weave (GBW).  That means is that the wire is galvanized when it is still a single strand, and not after it has been woven into a chain link mesh.  GBW wire is typically smoother than Galvanized After Weave (GAW) because when GAW wire is dipped in the zinc galvanizing solution, it tends to not drain evenly and the drips harden to form little zinc "icycles" (See images below).  These icycles can be sharp enough to scratch and cut your hands during and after installation.  They also make the wire harder to stretch because the knuckles get frozen in the excess zinc.

 Our vinyl coated chain link wire comes in 2 varieties, 9 ga. extruded and 8 ga. fused and bonded.  The 9 ga. is great for residential projects, while the heavier core 8 ga. is ideal for commercial and industrial work. 

We are also offering the following quantity discounts on all wire.  The more you buy, the more you save.  The discounts are applied automatically when you check out, so there are no hoops to jump through to get them.

3-6 Rolls - Save 5% 
7-18 Rolls - Save 10%
19 Rolls or More - Save 15%

As always, if you have any questions email us and our fence and railing expert support staff will be happy to help you.

What is a ... Fence Slat?

A Fence Slat (Privacy Slat) is a metal or plastic insert that turns a chain link fence into a privacy fence. Most slats are made from either aluminum or some type of plastic. 

Slats can be used for more than just privacy.  They can be combined in different colors to make designs or for corporate branding.

Below is a list of different types of PDS Fence Slats which are manufactured by Pexco.  They are all made from extruded High Density Polyethylene, a plastic that is resistant to UV and chemical exposure, with the exception of the hedge slats which is made with galvanized wire and PVC. They range in style, privacy factor, ease of installation, and cost.

Typically a bag of slats will cover approximately 10 linear feet of chain link fencing.

Top Lock Slats

Flat, tubular plastic inserts that have an elliptical shaped hole routed at the top.  They are installed through the mesh, and then a flat polyethylene channel is inserted through all of the slats to lock them into place.  They offer approximately 75% privacy.  The main benefit to top locking slats is that they all lock at exactly the same place, so the line of slats stays uniform at the top.

Bottom Lock Slats

Flat tubular plastic inserts that slide through the chain link mesh and lock into a plastic bottom channel.  PDS Bottom Lock Slats have reinforced legs through the inside of the slats to help them maintain their shape.  They offer approximately 75% privacy. Bottom Lock Slats are easier to install than Top Lock Slats, but they don't align as well at the top of the fence.

Winged Slats

Reinforced inserts that have additional, serrated plastic wings on the sides.  They are self locking, in that the serrations grip the chain link knuckles to hold the slats in place.  The wings also offer near full (90%) privacy.  Winged slats take more time to install because the serrations catch on the chain link.

Fence Weave

A flat, plastic extrusion that is sold in long (250') rolls.  Fence weave is woven through the chain link mesh and cut at the ends.  It is then fastened with brass fasteners.  The process takes longer than installing slats because of the effort involved to weave through all of the diamonds.  The weave offers 70% privacy.  

Hedge Slats

Constructed of 16 gauge galvanized, braided wire core and 3-mil PVC needles, HedgeLink slats mimic real hedges and do a great job of providing privacy while giving chain link fence a more natural look.

What'll They Think of Next? Pot Shot Over Border Fence With Cannon

According to this story on Officer.com the latest gambit by smugglers to get their drugs over the border fence involves making homemade cannons and shooting them across.  Apparently, the smugglers were able to shoot canisters full of marijuana over 500 ft. across a canal, but were foiled when a concerned U.S. citizen saw the canisters and called the border patrol.

Be wary of any "Ballistics Engineering" job opening's in Mexico.

How Much Does a Fence Cost? Budgeting for Your Fence to Avoid Your Own Personal Fiscal Cliff.

There's been a lot of talk about fiscal cliffs and budgeting lately; at least on a national level.  So to get into the spirit, we thought we would provide a few helpful numbers to help you budget for your fence project. 

So What Does a Fence Cost Anyway?

The estimates below are based on an average 200 linear foot residential fence - 6' tall with 2  pedestrian gates. 

	Treated Pine (Privacy)	Vinyl (Privacy)	Aluminum (Ornamental)
Fence Materials	$2500	$3500	$4000
Concrete	$150	$150	$150

As you can see from the table, the type of fence you choose makes a big difference in the overall cost, with aluminum coming in at roughly 60% more than wood (long term maintenance costs not withstanding) and vinyl in the middle. 

The second cost factor to consider is whether to build the fence yourself or hire a fence contractor.  If you have the time and are moderately handy, you can save a significant amount of money by going the DIY route, particularly if you already have the tools.  At a minimum you'll need either an augur (which can be rented) or a post hole digger, circular saw, hammer, drill, level, measuring tape, string, and wheelbarrow.

On the other hand, if you decide to hire a fence contractor or handyman keep in mind that labor rates vary greatly from depending on which part of the country you live, the terrain and soil type, and the skill level of the installation crew.  So, the estimate below may not reflect what you would actually pay for your fence installation. 

DIY Costs vs. Hiring a Contractor
DIY Equipment	$100-$500
Labor	$1000-$2000

Also note that, just like any other home improvement project, there can be additional costs if/when the unexpected happens.  For example, if you thought that your soil was smooth and sandy, and then you hit a large boulder when you go to dig your post holes.  Or, as happened to one customer, your utilities provider mis-marks your line and you end up hitting it with the augur, cutting out phone service for half the neighborhood.  The point is, you never know what could happen, so budget a little more (10-20%) than you think necessary.  If you don't end up using it, then you can always put it toward a nice vacation.

Signet Fence Holiday Schedule

Dear Customers: We wish you a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! Please note that any orders placed on signetfence.com between 12/21/2012 and 1/2/2013 will ship on, or after 1/2/2013. Also, our customer service office will be closed until 1/2/2013, so phone support will not be available. However, we will still respond to all email inquiries. To contact us during this time, please click here. Thank you, Signet Fence

What is a .... Bulldog Hinge

A Bulldog Hinge is an easy to install and operate gate hinge that is typically used for commercial and industrial chain link gate installations.  One end of a bulldog hinge is an adjustable pressed steel collar that fits around a 1 5/8 or 2" gate frame.  The other end is a U-Bolt that goes around the post.  The hinge must be installed so that one of the gate frame rails rests on the Bulldog Hinge collar so the the gate won't move vertically.

A Bulldog Hinges is 90 degree hinges in that it will only allow the gate to open 90 degrees in either direction.  However, it can be fitted with a hinge adapter which provides a full 180 degree range of motion for the gate.

Useful tip: To prevent the bulldog hinge from scratching or cutting into the underside of your gate frame (which can lead to rust) you can use a bearing washer on top of the hinge to spread the weight of the gate.

It Takes a Village to Raise a Fence

Or at least a few close neighbors....

Foxnews.com has an article on how to avoid conflict with your neighbors when designing and building a fence.  Despite the fact that they too quote Robert Frost in the very first line of the article (it must be obligatory to mention the Mending Wall poem every time a mainstream writer talks about fencing), some of the tips that they give are really useful. 

Featured Projects: A Stair-Stepped Fence with Metal Posts and Oz-Brackets

Our featured customer project this month comes from Russ in North Carolina who used Large Oz-Brackets to build this beautiful wood fence on sloping ground.  You'll notice that Russ chose to stair-step the fence panels, meaning that each successive panel is a little higher than the next.  The result is that the fence follows the angle of the ground, but the top of each panel is perfectly level.

Looking at photo above would lead one to believe that the entire fence is constructed of wood, but that isn't true.  Russ actually used 2 3/8" metal posts to anchor the fence in the ground.  Metal posts have a much longer life in the ground than wood because their not susceptible to rot or insect damage.  To accomplish the natural look of all wood, Russ built a wood facade around the metal posts using OZ-Brackets and wood boards.  From the neighbor side of the fence, its nearly impossible to tell that he didn't use wood posts.

To the left is a closeup of one of the wood facade columns that Russ built around the metal post.  He used 5/4 x 8 boards to give the columns more depth.

You can also see the large OZ-Brackets on the top and bottom rails.  The large brackets have extra long tabs and enough wood screws to fasten the sides of the facade walls and also the horizontal rails.  When the fence is finished, the brackets are covered by the wood boards, so nobody knows they are there.


















Below is a picture of the fence halfway through construction.  You can clearly see that while the top of the fence is perfectly level, the bottom of the fence follows the slope of the terrain.  Building the fence this way ensures that there are no large gaps at the bottom of the fence that animals can crawl under.

Kudos to Russ for a job well done, and many thanks to him for sharing the photos with us and our readers.

If you are a customer of Signet Fence that has a great fence or railing project that you'd like to share on our blog, drop us a line at info (at) signetfence.com.

Now That's a Strong Fence

From abc News:

Drug Smugglers' SUV Stuck Atop Border Fence

A+ for creativity and effort,  F for execution.

Building a Wood Fence with Metal Posts?

Do you know which part of your wood fence is most susceptible to rot and insect damage?  If you said the posts, congratulations, you're right.

Most wood posts rot from the ground surface down to the concrete plug, which makes perfect sense when you consider the fact that they sit in a dark, damp environment for years.  There are certain things you can do to extend the life of your wood posts like using loose gravel for drainage or putting some type of rubber sealant on; but, over time wood fence posts will rot. 

That's why one of the hot trends in fencing today is attaching steel posts to wood fencing instead of the traditional 4x4's or 6x6's.  2 3/8" galvanized steel posts are much stronger and more durable than treated wood.  Plus they won't rot, get insect damage or get damaged by the weed trimmer. 

Using metal fence brackets, you can install your wood fence with galvanized steel posts to avoid rot and insect damage.

Put up a Facade to Achieve an "All Wood" Look

One of the only drawbacks to using steel posts is that it takes away from the natural look of an all wood fence.  But, that is easily remedied by building a wood "facade" around the steel post with 2x4's.  In fact, the large Oz Post Brackets* are designed with extra long tabs which allow you to do exactly that.  And since none of your wood facade is below ground, the chances of it rotting are greatly diminished.

* Oz Post Brackets have been discontinued. Check out the replacement WAP-OZ brackets below, or view our entire selection of wood to steel post adapters here.

Build a wooden facade around metal posts to achieve an all wood look.

 If you want to build a wood fence that lasts, while minimizing your upkeep, consider using steel posts for installation.

 

WAP-OZ Wood to Steel Brackets make it easy to install a wood fence using steel posts.

Using the Oz-Puller to Remove Damaged Fence Posts

Over the past week we've received a number of calls from homeowner's whose wood fences were damaged or destroyed by Hurricane Sandy.  Most of them want to know how replace their posts when there is a big 60-80lb concrete plug in the ground.  Luckily, we have a tool in our store called the Oz-Puller which is perfectly suited for this kind of work.

What is the Oz-Puller and How Does It Work 

 

The Oz-Puller is a 48" Farm Jack with a frame that is designed to provide maximum pulling power, up to 6600 lbs, with minimal effort.

The video below shows how easy it can be to remove a concrete plug from the ground using the Oz-Puller with the Plug Clamp.

Protect Your Fence from Storm and Wind Damage

Hurricane Irma is bearing down on the Northeast U.S. and, while it may be too late to protect your fence from her wake, it is a good opportunity to share some tips for avoiding future storm damage to your fence.

Here Are 5 Steps You Can Take To Protect Your Fence Against Storm and Wind Damage.

Trim Trees Near the Fence

Don't let your fence end up like the one on the left. The vast majority of storm fence damage we see comes from tree limbs falling on the fence and crushing one or more sections.  In most cases this is easily prevented by removing overhanging limbs.  If the fence is yours, but the tree is on a neighbors property, ask them if you can have the overhanging limbs removed.  In most cases they will agree.  And remember, it's not only hurricanes and/or high winds that can cause tree limbs to fall; many customers over the years have had limbs fall because of heavy snow storms.

Also remove any dead or dying trees near the fence as they are the most likely to uproot and fall during a storm.

Remove Temporary Yard Objects

A stiff wind can make that garden gnome fly as far as Travelocity.  Anything that can get picked up in high winds is a potential threat to your fence, your cars, and your home.  When you know a storm with high winds is coming put patio furniture, trash containers, grills, flowerpots, etc. in the garage or other enclosed area.

In a pinch, you can sink patio furniture to the bottom of a swimming pool, just be aware that it can damage the liner of your pool if done incorrectly.  

Repair Loose Posts and Sections if Necessary

 Loose or damaged fence posts and sections are the most susceptible to high winds since their stability is already comprimised.  Remove and rebury any posts that have started to lift out of the ground due to frost or prior wind damage.  Fix any loose or damaged boards on wood or vinyl fences as they can break off and create a ballistic hazard.

Wind can easily push over a fence when posts have started to heave out of the ground

Use Reinforcements for Vinyl, Composite, and Aluminum Fences

If you live in an area of frequent storms or high winds you should consider reinforcing your posts and rails with wood, metal, or concrete.  If your fence manufacturer offers steel or aluminum reinforcement channels for your posts, adding them at installation will up the cost of the fence, but will reduce the likelihood of wind damage in the future.

Lock Down or Remove Gates

If you don't have a good lock on your gate, use a padlock or chain to secure it.  The last thing you want in high winds is for your gate to start slamming against the fence, or worse, the side of your house.  If the gate is easy to take off the hinges, even better; take it off and store it in the garage until the storm passes.

Have any other useful tips for storm-proofing your fence?  Let us know in the comments section and we'll update this post with them.

Westbury Riviera C30R Aluminum Railing: Put a Ring on It

The decorative rings of the Westbury Riviera C30R Aluminum Railing add style and break up the clean straight lines of the standard 3-Rail Riviera.  Available in both 36" and 42" heights, multiple widths, and 10 stunning architectural grade powder coated colors.